Exploring Indonesian Identity Through Food and Hajj with Prof. Edwin P. Wieringa

The UIII Faculty of Social Sciences (FOSS) hosted a captivating BrownBag event on September 25, 2024, featuring Prof. Dr. Edwin P. Wieringa from the University of Cologne, Germany. His presentation, titled “Everyday Islam in Indonesia: National Identity in the Context of Globalization,” delved into the intricate relationship between Indonesian identity, food, and the Hajj pilgrimage.

Prof. Wieringa highlighted the unique culinary preferences of Indonesian pilgrims during the Hajj. Drawing from Baharuddin Aritonang’s account, “A Batak Performs the Hajj,” he illustrated how Indonesian pilgrims, even in the modern era of air travel, continue to bring traditional foods such as supermie (noodles), sambal (chili sauce), and salted fish to Saudi Arabia. This practice, he argued, underscores the deep-rooted connection between food and national identity.

He elaborated that Aritonang’s narrative revealed that despite the availability of diverse cuisines in Saudi Arabia, Indonesian pilgrims often find solace in their own food. The author recounted his experience of trying Arab food, which, despite being popular among visitors from the Middle East and Africa, did not appeal to his Indonesian palate. 

Prof. Wieringa also referenced practical guides for pilgrims, such as Ha Halim Ibnu Hafidz’s “Tips Praktis Umrah & Haji,” which advises bringing familiar foods to avoid the “boring” taste of Arab cuisine. Similarly, Dra. Hj. Siti Noordayat’s guide recommends packing instant noodles, sambal, and other Indonesian staples to ensure a comfortable stay in Saudi Arabia.

“This indicates that Indonesians want Indonesian food, and the food should not be too foreign, making sense of taste [as] national food,” Prof. Wieringa noted while justifying the distinction between “our” food and “their” food, as discussed by scholars like Bourdieu and Campbell, to emphasize the role of taste in affirming cultural boundaries.

Interestingly, he continued, Aritonang noted that one of Mecca's most popular food stalls advertised itself as “Warung Indonesia” (Indonesian Food Stall), yet its sellers were from Thailand. This paradox raises questions about authenticity and the complexities of national identity in a globalized world. 

The BrownBag event was a series of academic gatherings organized by UIII's Faculty of Social Sciences, aimed at fostering intellectual exchange on relevant topics of politics and culture. The event provided a platform for both students and faculty to engage directly with experts like Prof. Wieringa, whose research offered new insights into the intersection of food, faith, and national identity. At the same event, he explored the portrayal of hell in comics during the New Order regime, further enriching the discussion on Indonesian identity and cultural narratives.

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